Here is a view of all the parts laided out in
assembly order. You can click on any picture
to get a bigger view. One of the first things that needs to be done
is to trim or machine the various fittings to
seating depth.
In the above photo we measure the seating depth from the face of the flange to the bottom of the flange. This is about 3/4". So the cooresponding fittings need trimmed to about 3/4". All fittings should be checked and machined to the maximum seating depth.
Here I screwed the slip to pipe coupler onto a 1"
threaded pipe then chucked it into my lathe. I then used a hack saw to trim the fitting as it spun.
Once the fitting was rough trimmed, I then cleaned up the face using a tool bit.
Here I chamfered the inside edge of the slip
to pipe coupler. Then used #240 wet -n- dry sandpaper to remove any stray PVC plastic.
Here are both of the slip to pipe couplers
done and ready for assembly.
Here are the upper and lower tee's with the slip
to pipe couplers glued in place. Be sloppy
and use a lot of PVC glue on both mateing
parts. Use a little laquor thinner on a paper
towel to wipe the surfaces clean after glueing.
The above photo shows the 3" cleanout
drain glued in place. No machining was
needed since its seating depth was perfect
as bought. You will not see this often.
Here the lower tee get its 3"x1 1/2" reducer glued in. Then glue in the 1 1/2"x45° street elbow. Always pay attention to the orientation
of the inlet, outlet and drain in respect to your installation. You can not undo a glue joint
once set.
Next glue the 1 1/2"x3/4" reducer into
the end of the street elbow. The outside
diameter of the 1/2" slip to thread coupler is close to 3/4". Machine it for a snug fit into the 1/2"x3/4" reducer and glue it in.
We need to prepare the threaded end of
the 1/2" slip to thread coupler to receive
the 1/2" ball valve. Coat the threads of the coupler and valve with teflon pipe sealant.
Screw the ball valve onto the threaded
coupler as far as you can. Make sure
of the orientation of the valve handle
is pointing out and up.
Here is an issue most will not have to
address. I like to use Street elbows, however
the opening in the threaded end of this 1"
elbow is around 7/8" and not 1"
So I just chuck it up in my drill press and
drill it out to 1". I was thinking of my
Bridgeport Mill, however the setup time is
a bit much when brute force will do.
Now the diameter is 1" and ready for use.
With lots of teflon pipe sealant on the
threads, the street elbow is screwed into
the lower tee assembly.
With the lower tee assembly complete, I
screwed it onto my rig to get a measurement
for the body length. The length is not real
critical. Mine turned out to be about 18". I
like to use this miter saw as it produces
square clean cuts.
Here is the top tee assembly ready to be
glued onto the body tube. The tee has raised
marks every 45°. I line up a mark with the
printing on the body. This way the inlet and
outlets are parallel when done.
Here is the bottom tee assembly ready to
be glued onto the body.Watch your
allignment, don't screw it up now!.
Finially a first glimps look at the finished
oil seperator.
This is a picture of a lift time supply of
Stainless Steel Wool. I purchased it online
from Grainger. Be careful the wool has sharp
edges and will cut you if you are not careful.
I rolled off about a 36" strip. Then fluffed it
and stuffed it into the top of the seperator.
Here is a view looking down into the
seperator showing the stainless steel wool.
Make sure you apply plenty of teflon pipe
sealant to the screw top. Coat both the inside and outside threads. Then screw the top
on. Wipe excess sealant away.
Here is a view of the seperator installed
on my rig. Notice some yuk stains on the
floor from the seperator. Reduce your gas pressure when emptying or this will happen.